FAQ

Q: How do I reset my breaker?

1. First, take hold of the circuit
   breaker handle between your thumb and forefinger and firmly push to the “off” position. When it is reset, you will hear or feel it “click”.
2. Next, take hold of the handle, and move it to the “on” position.
3. Now your tripped breaker should be successfully reset!

What happens if it trips again?

The circuit breaker may be doing its job. There may be an unclear fault on the circuit, or the circuit may be overloaded.

Q: What are ARC Fault breakers?

Why Do I Have Arc Fault Circuit Breakers?

Electrical Arcing is a serious problem. Every year thousands of fires occur in homes as a result of electrical arcing. An electrical arc is extremely hot, and can cause electrical fires around the affected area. Several years ago, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) determined that the major cause of arcing based fires occurred in bedrooms. Now the NEC (National Electrical Code) requires that all single family homes (dwelling units) have arc fault protection installed for the entire bedroom circuit. This means that all bedroom outlets, switches, plugs, and light fixtures must be protected by an arc fault device for your safety.

How Real Is The Threat Of Electrical House Fires?

There are over forty thousand house fires related to electrical arcing every year. This statistic alone is reason enough for the introduction of the arc fault protective circuit breaker.
Please check out this link: www.cpsc.gov/trans/elecwire.html

Q: If my breaker keeps tripping, why can’t I install a larger breaker myself?

The Dangers of Non-Licensed Electricians…

Here are the most common dangers of non-licensed individuals attempting electrical work Electrical installations are the most regulated part of any and all processes in the construction industry, for a very good reason. If not done correctly you can have shocks, electrocution hazards, fire, and property hazards that can ultimately result in the loss of life. The National Fire Protection Association produces the “code” or National Electrical Code, about every three years. The constant updating of this code is necessary because of the ever changing technologies, and new equipment that is constantly being manufactured. Having a non-licensed person do electrical work is not only illegal, it is incredibly dangerous. Think about it for a moment, would you: have legal assistant put brakes on the family car? Ask a dentist to perform a face life on you? Ask a butcher to fly a jumbo jet with you and your family on it, to save a few bucks on your vacation? No, of course not. The safety of your family and home is far more important than saving a few dollars. Why would you let anyone other than a licensed electrician, do any electrical work on your home or office? It’s your property, it’s you and your loved ones lives, get a professional.

Q: Why Use Over Current Protection?

The purpose of over current protection devices is to simultaneously open (disconnect or turn off) all current carrying conductors, upon an over-current condition. simply stated: When the fuse blows or circuit breaker trips, it opens the flow of electricity to prevent or limit damage to the conductors in a circuit. Over current protections devices protect the integrity of the insulation of the conductor, and aid in the prevention of fires. It is not a good idea to change an over-current device yourself. There is usually a good reason the fuse blew or the breaker tripped, in other works the device is probably doing its job.

Q: What Are The Hazards Of Overloaded Currents?

Here are some of the major hazards that occur with overloaded circuits. Overloaded circuits often cause electrical fires. Because they are constantly overloaded, the insulation on the wire id degraded. This allows the hot conductor to come in contact with combustible material such as wood, framing members, or paper backing on sheet rock and insulation. If you have a circuit that blows fuses or trips circuit breakers regularly, call now. It needs to be looked at.

Why Is It Important To Have The Right Size Wiring And Fuses?

Properly sized wiring fuses, and circuit breakers are just as important as landing gear on a plane. Without the right size, you’re out of luck. The fuse or breaker size is determined by multiple factors:

• Conductor or Wire Size
• Insulation type on the conductor number of conductors in a cable or conduit
• Ambient temperatures surrounding the conductor. The “load” or the amount of equipment the circuit will operate determines conductor size.

So, if you have a friend or family member who just wants to “put in a bigger breaker”, please reconsider. Call a pro.

Q: Are Federal Pacific (FPE) breakers bad?

If you have an FPE Breaker Box, read this!
Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) was a large manufacturer of electrical breaker boxes or load centers and panel boards from the 1960’s to the 1980’s era. Problems arose from these products culminating in lawsuits in the early 1980’s and the withdrawal of the product line from the market by its producer. The consumer product safety commission has produced several case studies of the products and their hazards.

If you have FPE breakers or load centers, or even panel boards, our master electricians highly recommend that you have them replaced IMMEDIATELY! Federal Pacific Electrical breakers are well-documented fire hazards and have been proven to “lock-on” during an overload condition, just the opposite of what a breaker is designed to do!

Here is one of the typical statements we hear from owners of FPE breaker boxes:
“I’ve never had any problems with it (FPE breaker box) in 20 plus years, never tripped a breaker once”

Now if you lived in a home or office 20 plus years and never had a tripped circuit breaker, well either:

1. There is no electricity in your home or office… or…
2. You have a serious problem.

Breakers are designed to trip in order to protect wiring. The fact that none of the breakers have tripped in 20 plus years may show that overload conditions in your home or office are going un-protected.

Please check out this link: www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm

What the National Consumer Product Safety Commission says about FPE breakers:

FPE electrical components do not fully comply with certain underwriter’s labs. Inc. requirements. They fail certain UL calibration tests.

Q: What is the difference in aluminum and copper wiring?

• Not all aluminum wiring is hazardous, aluminum wiring can be safe is properly utilized.
• Things like high voltage transmission lines and even the service entrance conductors feeding you home are usually aluminum.
• So what’s the big deal with aluminum wiring?
• When used as smaller conductors (Like AWG#10 for a 20 AMP circuit or AWG#12 for a 15 amp circuit in a home) aluminum wiring can be hazardous.

What Makes Aluminum Wiring Unsafe?

Here are some reasons why small aluminum conductors make a poor substitute for copper.

• Aluminum is not as conductive as other metals like copper.
• Because it has a higher resistance, and because of its metallic properties, aluminum expands and contracts under loads significantly more than copper.
• As the “load” or amperage increases on the conductor it begins to expand, and when the load decreases, the conductor contracts back to its initial size.
• The constant expansion and contraction or aluminum wire, combined with oxidation, because terminations in wire connectors, and on devices such as outlets and switches, cause them to become loose.
• When the wiring becomes loose, it will arc, and arcing will eventually lead to a fire.

Why?

For larger appliances and large “feeders” aluminum does not pose as big of a problem.

•  The connection methods for the larger wires take this expansion and contraction into account.
• Additionally anti-oxidant compounds are required on these connections.

What the National Electrical Code 2005 Says About Aluminum Wiring Devices

• Receptacles rated 20 amps or less and designed for the direct connection of aluminum wire shall be marked CO/ALR.
• Switches rated 20 amps or less directly connected to aluminum wire shall be marked CO/ALR.

What is CO/ALR?

CO/ALR is a device that has specific characteristics minimizing the effects of aluminum expansion and contraction. This makes the device safer for a direct connection to an aluminum conductor.

Please check out this link: www.nfpa.org/aboutthecodes/AboutTheCodes.asp?DocNum=70

What the Consumer Product Safety Commission Says About Aluminum Wiring Devices

An estimated 2 million homes have been constructed using aluminum wiring.

Trouble signs associated with aluminum wiring:

• Warm switch or outlet plates.
• Strange or distinctive odor of burning plastic.
• Flickering lights.

If your home has aluminum wiring and you have experienced any of these occurrences, call now!
Please check out this link: www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml74/74040.html

Copper & Aluminum Approved Devices (CO/ALR)

• These devices were designed for the direct hookup of both copper and aluminum.
• Each device will be marked CO/ALR or CU/AL.
• Each device will also bear the UL listing symbol.

What is Pig Tailing? Should I Use It In My Home?

Pig Tailing is achieved by attaching a short piece of copper conductor at the end of the aluminum conductor, made safe by using a UL approved connector designed to connect copper and aluminum wire. When copper is added, you may then attach the wiring to any copper approved device, outlet, switch, appliance, ground fault receptacle, etc. The National Electrical code only approves UL listed connectors for this application, but does discourage the connections of two dissimilar metals, due to electrolytic action. The consumer product safety commission recognized and supports pig tailing when using the approved UL listed products. Pig tailing should be utilized when designer devices or ground fault devices are being installed. The alternative to pig tailing is simply installing CO/ALR devices. When installed by a professional, these devices are both safe and inexpensive.

Larger Circuits & Aluminum Wiring

Larger circuits, like feeder circuits for breaker boxes, are in most cases safe even when using aluminum wiring. These are safe because of the special methods used in the installation of these conductors and their respective connectors. Large circuits are designed with aluminum wiring in mind.

Anti-Oxidant Compounds & What They Do

Anti-Oxidant compounds, if properly used, minimize the effects of oxidation on the aluminum conductor. This results in a better, connection and an ultimately safer system.

Q: Is it possible to overload a circuit?

Are You Currently Running 4 Appliances Off of One Circuit?

Well Unfortunately This Causes a Problem. Electricity has enriched our lives. Despite the many benefits, electricity can also bring danger — the most common being house fires. It is estimated that over 40,000 residential house fires are caused by electrical systems every year in the United States. This article discusses overloading electrical circuits.

First, we must understand some basics about typical home electrical systems. The electrical service enters the house and connects to a main electrical panel. From the main electrical panel, wires run in different directions throughout the house to power lights, outlets, ceiling fans, air conditioners, and various other direct-wired electrical appliances. These wire-runs are called branch circuits.

In home construction today, the typical branch circuit consists of three wires – the hot, neutral and ground wires. When a light or electrical appliance is turned on, electricity begins to flow in the hot and neutral wires of the branch circuit to which that light or electrical appliance is connected.

When electricity flows through a wire, the wire heats up because of its resistance to the flow of electrical current. Both the size of the wire (resistance increases as the wire diameter gets smaller) and how many electrical devices on the circuit are drawing electricity (more devices increase the electrical current) affect the amount of heat generated in the wire. To keep the wire from getting too hot and starting a fire, the designer of the branch circuit wiring does two things:

1. Attempts to size the wire large enough to handle the estimated electrical load on the circuit.
2. Attempts to contain the amount of electrical load on the branch circuit by limiting the number of potential electrical appliances that can be running at the same time on that circuit (i.e. places only so many outlets on one branch circuit or puts larger pieces of electrical equipment on circuits dedicated to that equipment only).

While the electrical codes help with the design assumptions, how the homeowner will use the outlets in the house is just a guess. The homeowner can plug in and run too many appliances on the same circuit at one time and overload the circuit.

This is why electrical fuses and circuit breakers are used in the main electrical panel. Their function is to sense the overloading of circuits (and short circuits) and shut off power to that branch circuit before the wires get too hot and start fire.

However, circuit breakers can malfunction and fail to trip. Homeowners can try to fix a “nuisance” fuse by placing a larger fuse in the electrical panel that allows more electrical current to flow in the branch circuit than what it was designed for. Homeowner can also use plug adapters and extension cords to plug in too many electrical appliances into one electrical outlet.

What Can Homeowners Do?

• If a fuse blows or circuit breaker trips frequently, have a qualified electrician determine what the problem is and fix it.
• If the main electrical panel has circuit breakers, flip them off and back on once a year. This will help keep them working. It is also a good idea to have a qualified electrician out to your home or office to help you test the circuit breakers to make sure they are functioning properly.
• If extension cords or plug adapters are being used to plug multiple appliances into the same outlet, have a qualified electrician install more outlets on a new or different branch circuit(s).
• Using power strips (or multiple outlet surge protectors) with their own circuit breaker protection is better than using extension cords to plug in multiple appliances or electronics. The circuit breaker protection assures that not too many appliances are plugged in and drawing electricity at once. In addition, the cords to the power strips are surge protectors usually have a larger diameter wire than a typical extension cord, which reduces the heat that is generated inside the cord.
• It does not protect the more valuable in-home wiring such as your branch circuit wiring. The power strip and surge protectors circuit breaker only protect the devices which are plugged in to them. Using several plug strips on outlets on the same branch circuit may overload the circuit and cause a fire.
• Never run appliance cords or extension cords underneath carpet. They are designed to be kept cool by movement of room air and around the cord.
• If any outlet or switch wall plated feel hot to the touch, have a qualified electrician determine the problem and fix it right away, as it could lead to a potential fire safety hazard.
• Circuits can only handle a specified total wattage of all electrical devices plugged into and running on a branch circuit at one time. Here is a guide from the National Electrical Safety Foundation (NESF) to follow:
  • 15-amp branch circuit can carry 1500 watts
  • 20-amp branch circuit can carry 2000 watts

Q: Why did my heating and air conditioning technician tell me to call an electrician for my tripped breaker?

Here’s Why Some Motors Trip Circuit Breakers…

Motors create an inductive load, which means their current lags behind their voltage. When a motor is started, large amount of energy are used. However, much less energy is required to keep it running. In “E” style motors, the startup energy demand can exceed the normal working demand by as much as 1300 times! However, for most common A/C units the demand is about 150% to 300%. Most older A/C units require a longer start up time, often resulting in a tripped breaker. Older A/C units also may have weak or bad motors that often cause breakers to trip as well. A common attempt to remedy this is the installation of a capacitor to assist the motor on start up, commonly referred to as a hard start kit. Be aware, this does not correct the issue. Always consult a licensed, professional technician.

• Loose Bus Bar Connections May Cause Overloads
• Loose connections between the breaker and bus bar often are the source for breaker tripping. If this situation occurs frequently, it can cause a burn out where the breaker and bus bar meet. If this situation does occur the breaker box needs to be replaced. The bus bars that are damaged allow for tight electrical connections with the A/C or other breakers. This will eventually lead to a fire.

What Is “Lock Rotor Amperage” On Home A/C Units?

“Lock Rotor Amperage” refers to the amount of current that will be demanded if voltage is applied to a motor and the motor shaft seizes. This is very similar to the start up current required by a motor.

Q: How do I fix my chirping smoke detector?

First off, check your batteries; they may need to be replaced. Most new homes or those recently remodeled will have linked smoke detectors. These all sound off simultaneously, even when only one unit detects smoke. In most cases, replacing the battery fixes the problem. Many “hardwired” or 120 volt units will have a battery backup, so try this fix even for hard wired smoke detectors. If all else fails, give us a call!

Q: Is it okay if my light switch sparks when it is turned on?

How Switches Work…

Switches are used every day in every facet of our lives. From turning on and off your lights, to operating appliances. Properly functioning switches are vital to your home. Switches work by bringing two contacts together. In the case of home or office wiring, these are referred to as snap switches. Snap switches hold the contacts under a certain tension, and when “turned on” they release that tension. This causes the switch to complete the circuit and hold tight. When “turned off” they release an opposite tension and rapidly disconnect the circuit.

Q: Why does my ground fault outlet (GFCI) always trip when it rains?

What is a Ground Fault?

A ground fault happens when the grounding conductor, usually a bare wire, is conducting electricity back to the earth or “ground”. This bare conductor is specifically installed for safety reasons. It’s job is to cause breakers or fuses to trip, in order to clear a short. When this wire constantly conducts electricity, It is referred to as ground fault.

Why Should I Have Ground Fault Protection?

Ground Fault Protection devices, such as GFI outlets and circuit breakers, turn off the circuit when the detect electricity flowing on the ground wire. These devices can even detect the current without the bare wire being present, by using electronic calculation of any imbalance between the “hot” or “phase” wire and the “neutral” wire. If there is any difference in current between the two wires, the device will determine that the energy is going to ground, causing it to shut off. The usual setting of these devices is five milliamps. That’s only five one thousandths of 1 amp! 0.005 amps! Not even the smallest amount of electricity escapes these devices.

What Does The National Electrical Code Say About Ground Fault (GFCI) Protection?

GFCI outlets are required in all “high risk” areas of your home or office. GFCI are required in places like bathrooms, basements, garages, outdoor areas (without outlets), kitchens, and pools. One rule of thumb to follow: when outlets are near water sources – install GFI protection!!!

BY GOING GREEN……………….WE CAN SAVE YOU GR$$N

How can we live lightly on the Earth and save money at the same time?

Climate change is in the news. It seems like everyone’s “going green.” We’re glad you want to take action, too. Luckily, many of the steps we can take to stop climate change can make our lives better. Our grandchildren-and their children-will thank us for living more sustainably. Let’s start now.

Save energy to save money.

1.  Set your thermostat a few degrees lower in the winter and a few degrees higher in the summer to save on heating and cooling costs.
2. Unplug appliances when you’re not using them. Or, use a “smart” power strip that senses when appliances are off and cuts “phantom” or “vampire” energy use.
3. Wash clothes in cold water whenever possible. As much as 85 percent of the energy used to machine-wash clothes goes to heating the water.
4. Use a drying rack or clothesline to save the energy otherwise used during machine drying. If you must use a dryer, consider adding dryer balls to cut drying time.
5.  Install compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) when your older incandescent bulbs burn out.